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When compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.